Prada cancels Milan Fashion Week

The jagged form of a front split on a pencil skirt could almost have been a sewing accident. Ditto for the wrinkles in a jacket or the way a silk dress had its fabric twist at the hem. It was, of course, entirely on purpose, because it was Prada, the purveyor of combined fashion and complex subjects.

Image: Prada SS23 via Prada.com

“Gestures of Errors” is how co-creative director Raf Simons explained the technical protocols. Those who regularly handle fabrics know that different types, be it wool, cotton, silk, all behave in their own way, responding uniquely to cutting, washing and even sewing.

The show notes explained the ethos: “Life and humanity make the clothes—not superficial adornments, but traces of life, leaving marks. This idea of ​​clothing shaped by humanity excites us.”

This is why the different pleats, splits, gathers and twists were brought to life, letting the fabrics speak for themselves. It resonated on Prada’s famous catwalk set, where Danish director Nicolas Winding Refn’s interpretation of unfiltered and raw family life framed and created the collection. As always, it was executed in a dynamic ensemble by Dutch architects and researchers OMA.

‘Clothes for the intimacy of the home’

As for the clothes, apart from deliberate mishaps, there were baggy jackets with shoulders worn over skinny trousers and overalls for the day. The humble shirt was ubiquitous, but freshly buttoned at the neck, worn under woolen sweaters and tailoring, with sleeves styled to keep the cuffs visible.

Prada said in a statement that cross-pollination is worn day and night. “The signs and signifiers of each change – opera coats are paired with leather jackets, couture borrows fabric trains. Homewear in subtle pastel tones is paired with outerwear, a blurring of distinct realities, while the concept of the Prada uniform , with poplin shirt jumpsuits in industrial colors, suggests a minimalist reality.”

There was little logo craze in the look from previous seasons, with the exception of a fitted long sleeve that featured an embroidered logo on the neckline. A leather coat and dress featured large folded collars and a double button front closure.

All of the looks, there were 55, were paired with a revamped Mary Jane shoe, a more rugged and pointed version in a Prada color palette. These will be instantly recognizable when they hit retailers next season.

Image: Prada SS23 set via Prada.com

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