It’s clear that Fendi has found a niche home in the bustling atmosphere of New York. The brand previously presented the forward-thinking and targeted next-generation project ‘F is For Fendi’ in 2017 at New York’s Boiler Room and took over the streets of Times Square in 2021 with a Fendi Roma billboard display. Now – a year later – the brand is back in the Big Apple to take New York Fashion Week by storm with its Resort 2023 collection.
With this collection, the brand celebrated the 25th anniversary of the ‘Baguette’ bag heralding the spirit of collaboration, with elements co-designed by Tiffany & Co, Marc Jacobs, Sarah Jessica Parker and Porter. First introduced in 1998, the miniature shoulder bag achieved coveted “It Bag” status after appearing in a now-classic HBO bag heist episode. Sex and the city – where Parker’s insanely famous Carrie Bradshaw character donned a glamorous version and exclaimed, “It’s not a bag, it’s a baguette.”
On the Resort ’23 runway, Fendi’s appreciation of New York street style was evident in its presentation of layered knits, handcrafted denim, stacked accessories and technical outerwear. Utility – as a theme – was the design focus of the collection’s ready-to-wear approach and included leather windbreakers with block front chest panels, moire bomber jackets with double zip closures and envelope-sized pockets, alongside tonal cargo trousers and outerwear car coats. zipper details. ‘Fendi Roma’ logo shirts, military boots and embellished beanies were finished off with glittery sequined pieces and two-tone sports jackets.
The Tiffany “T” logo combined with Fendi’s inverted “F” logo appeared as hardware graphics on Baguette Satin, outerwear and baseball caps in “Tiffany Blue”. The collection’s regular-sized bags also featured a super-mini Baguette – similar to the tiny size of the ‘Saddle Bag’ seen on the Dior x ERL men’s runway – with multi-pocket compartments. The mini-baguette was also attached to baseball caps, belts and hand gloves. Additionally, with Porter’s expertise in craftsmanship and decorative details, the Japanese brand’s stamp can be seen with the introduction of the ‘Bum Baguette’ collection – highlighting the bonded nylon technique seen on the catwalk.
SJP mentioned above SATC Baguette made another appearance on the catwalk, as she co-designed a capsule of the revamped bag (along with Silvia Venturini), in bold shades of pink, blue and purple degradé sequins. Inside each of the SJP capsule items, Bradshaw’s unforgettable line, “It’s not a bag, it’s a baguette” is inscribed to honor the legendary status of the bag.
Following Parker’s iteration, Jacobs — no stranger to the world of “It Bag” status — incorporated a graffiti-style font placement of “The Baguette Bag” into a new oversized version, using the block-letter font style that similarly appears in the eponymous “The Tote Bag”. Additionally, Jacobs’ iconic Fall 2012 oversized ‘pimp hats’ also made an updated appearance here, in the form of white recycled fluro fur worn with off-white denim, oversized cellophane opera capes alongside enlarged Baguette’s.
For Kim Jones – the Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear at Fendi – the spirit of collaboration knows no bounds, having previously extended to work with numerous brands in recent years, including Versace, ERL and Kim’s Skims line Kardashian.
Elaborating on this current collection, Jones says, “I didn’t want to do a traditional anniversary ‘collection’. Rather it is a celebration of an era, the moment when the Baguette became famous. I associate this time with a sense of excessive freedom and fun – both characteristics that Baguette possesses.”
Jacobs agreed with Jones’ sentiment, stating, “I have one word: Fendiroma. And it’s a word! It’s another country, this Fendiroma… And I have two words: The Baguette. It’s a bag – and I never shy away from an iconic bag.”
Commenting on the Baguette’s iconic history, Venturini (Artistic Director of Accessories and Menswear at Fendi), shared: “It was a special day when I designed this bag. the stars aligned. The horoscope said it was a Fendi day.”
You can see the full Fendi Resort 2023 co-designed collection on the brand’s website.
Elsewhere at New York Fashion Week, Eckhaus Latta’s SS23 collection established its own status quo.